I believe the most underestimated element of garment construction is pattern making. Get this wrong and you really don’t stand a chance. Usually I put good money into patterns. I’ve got patterns I had drafted by a professional patternmaker for me over 10 years ago that are still my go to, and from there I can make alterations. I did 2 years of patternmaking and working for years alongside teams of patternmakers and assistants I know the value of a good pattern and the time it takes to produce one. There are some great commercial style patterns, some books, excellent bag patterns and of course there’s the retail giants of Butterick, McCalls and Vogue. Personally I’ve always found Vogue to be good, even if I vary their construction methods and seam allowances.
So why oh why did I think I could just hack out a soft jacket pattern from a dress bodice I hadn’t even made before???
It all started with this fabric – very soft viscose blend with a pattern that is so mobile I think I spent more time placing pattern pieces and micro adjusting the print with my square ruler than sewing
I thought to fuse the hem, cuff, front and neck facings, but forgot the armhole. Consequently the jacket is now sitting in my sewing room, unpicked and ready for some lightweight fuse along the seamline – to fix this, where the seam has pulled the fabric
Where I did fuse I got a nice result
This shows how the jacket hem was fused, pressed and then stitched within the side seam allowances to hold it in place. This gives a much smoother result than tunnelstitching from the front of the garment along the seamline.
I hand topstitched the front facings and cuff and added a braid trim to the hem. It was lined with 30 rupees worth of saree lining.
Photographing after a wear isn’t the best idea, but it has given a nice shape to the arms, and yes there is a pinch in my lining at the centre back!
I made so many mistakes I can’t believe it’s wearable.
But what it did encourage me to do was pull out a good pattern and start again
Here is a sneak peak. I’m hunting for good shoulder pads and sleeve roll. It has to be available somewhere – just not the places I’ve been
Oh, still more fabric left over so I made a skirt. It has fusing in the seams in all the right places. I promise not to wear them all at once!!